Cleaning

-- Similar to any item cleaned in your home, an excessive concentration of cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Follow manufacturer recommendations.

-- Clean stone surfaces with a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.

--Use a clean soft cloth for for best results. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth.

--Change the rinse water frequently. In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To
remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water).

--Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of some stone types.

--In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

Cleaning Products

-- Many suppliers offer products used for stone cleaning. Products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids may dull or etch calcareous stones.

-- Scouring powders or creams often contain abrasives that may scratch certain stones.

-- Many commercially available rust removers (laundry rust stain removers, toilet bowl cleaners) contain trace levels of hydrofluoric acid (HF). This acid attacks silicates in addition to other minerals. All stones, including granite and quartzite, will be attacked if exposed to HF.

-- Do not mix ammonia and bleach. This combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.

Sealing

-- Sealing is a common step taken on some stones as an extra precaution against staining. In fact, the sealing products used in the stone industry are ‘impregnators” which do not actually seal the stone, but more correctly act as a repellent rather than a sealer.

-- Sealing does not make the stone stain-proof, rather it makes the stone more stain resistant.

-- When consulting with your stone supplier, you may find that many stones do not require sealing. However, applying an impregnating sealer is a common practice.

-- If a sealer is applied in a food preparation area, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use.

-- Consult with your supplier or sealing manufacturer specific to the type of sealer and frequency of recommended use.

Coasters
-- Use coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices.

Trivets
-- While many stones can withstand heat, the use of trivets or mats is recommended.

Spills
-- Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don’t
wipe the area, it will spread the spill.

-- Flush the area with water and mild soap and rinse several times.

-- Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.

Easy To Clean
-- Some surfaces require special solvents and cleaner to maintain their luster and integrity.

-- Simple mild soap and water applied to a damp cloth is all you need to keep your surface looking
great.

Oil-based

(grease, plumbers’ putty, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)

-- An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away.

-- Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with one of the following: household detergent, mineral spirits, or acetone.

Organic

(coffee, tea, wine, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)
-- May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed.

--Outdoors, with the sources removed, sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains.

--Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

Biological

(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)

-- Clean with diluted cleaning solution. Use a 1/2 cup of any of the following: ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide and a gallon of water. Reminder: do not mix bleach and ammonia.

Ink

(magic marker, pen, ink)
-- On light colored stones, clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. On dark colored stones, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Metal

(iron, rust, copper, bronze)

-- Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture.

-- Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items.

-- Metal stains must be removed with a poultice.

-- Using a Poultice: Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
www.marble-institute.com/consumers/poultices.

Paint

-- Small amounts can be removed with lacquer
thinner or scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone and repolishing may be necessary.

--Follow the manufacturer’s directions for use of these products, and flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint.

--Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains.

Efflorescence

(a white powder that may appear on the surface of
the stone)

-- It is caused by the deposition of mineral salts carried by water from below the surface of the stone. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out.

-- Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.

Scratches and Nicks

-- Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and repolished by a professional.

Fire and Smoke Damage

-- Older stones and smoke or fire-stained
fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning. When
the smoke is removed, there may also be some
etching (due to carbonic & other acids in smoke). Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.

Etch Marks

(caused by acids left on the surface of the stone)

-- Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or repolishing etched areas.